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绅凯服装浅谈西服设计中的两用领

来源:北京绅凯服装   浏览:35   【字体: 】 发布日期: 2016-8-30 22:36:45 打印

绅凯服装浅谈垂直的和斜向的扣眼

两用领是翻领的一种。望文生义。这种领子可开可闭。制造如下:
A 一片领在领内边际翻折,外领线轻轻弯曲,有领角外型。
B两片领在领外边际处有缝线,领外边际与领围线均有弯曲及领角外型。
本章将评论这两种领的制造。
款A 与款 B

绅凯服装浅谈垂直的和斜向的扣眼
一片式两用领。
图 1 和图 1A
A 需将领子连在前后样板的领围处,在领围线处需留必定的松份,调整如下:
1 在后基地线与肩线处的领围均削减1/8英寸(0.3CM);
2 将前基地线处减量1/2-1/2 英寸(0.6-1.3CM);肩线处减量 1/8 英寸(0.3CM)。
3 画出新领线(虚线)。
B规划领子尺度:
1 从后基地线到肩线的新领围线;
2 从后基地线到前基地线的新领围线;
两用领在后基地处宽度一般取2 1/2 - 3 1/2 英寸(6.4-8.9CM),太宽了,会使领部感受不
舒服。
图 2


A 剪一块尺度大概为 12 英寸 *18英寸(30.5CM*45.7CM)的纸一张。
B将纸半数,压出折痕,翻开。在折痕上画一条线,标示“折叠线”(领边)。
C 在纸的左面。画一条线垂直于折叠线,取量等于领子宽度。标示“后基地线”,如
图2 1/2英寸(6.4CM),在后基地线上标点“A”。
D 过A 点画一条线平行于折叠线,长度为前后领围线长度之和。标示“领围线”。在领
围线上标点“B.”。
E 过 . 点画一条线垂直于折叠线,并与之相交,标为“前基地线”。
F 从 # 点在领围线上量后领围线长度,该处为肩颈点方位,做上符号,标上“肩颈
点”。
图 3
A 从B 点沿前基地线向上量取1/2 英寸(1.3CM),标点,标为“C”。
B 从C点至肩颈点画一直线(虚线)。
C 在C 点与屑颈点这段虚线中点向下量 1/8 英寸((0.3CM)处标点,过此点、肩颈点及
C点画一条弧线,作为新的前领围线。
图4

绅凯服装浅谈垂直的和斜向的扣眼

 


A 沿折叠线将纸折叠,并用大头针固定。
B 画出规划好的领角。图示虚线代表不一样的领角。
C在折纸不和拓印后基地线、后领线、新的前领围线、肩颈点和领角。
图 5
A翻开纸样,用铅笔画出所印线迹和肩颈点。
B 在图上标示“领面”和“领里”(如图)。
C 从后基地线开端,在领面的领围线上,依据织物厚度不一样留出 1/16 - 1/8英寸(0.2-0.3CM)的松份,领尖处不留松份,构成锥形。精确地如图虚线画出。
阐明:领面线的附加松份是为了领面能平顺地翻折,一起也荫蔽了领尖到领围线的缝
迹。这一原理简直适用于一切沿折叠线剪成领宽线的领子,中式领及其类似的立领在外。
D 在领面上标出后基地线;在领里间隔后基地线1/4 英寸10.6CM处标示。
阐明:领面与领里上的符号坐落不一样的方位,是为了便于辨明领面和领里。
E依据规划画出经向线。
F 完结纸样,留出缝头,剪开并打剪口。
图5A

绅凯服装浅谈垂直的和斜向的扣眼


该示意图标明翻开的一片领,并标明领子上符号方位与后基地线的联系。
图 6A 和图 6

绅凯服装浅谈垂直的和斜向的扣眼


这两个示意图标明一个领子,但是在领宽线有缝迹。在领面的领宽线处留出松份,替代了这种类型领子的领线。如图,在领尖处不留松份,构成锥形。
款 C
领宽线为弧形的两片式两用领

绅凯服装浅谈垂直的和斜向的扣眼


阐明:这种领因为有外型,所以不能裁成一片。
A参照款 " 制造该款领型的纸样,如图 1、图 2 和图3。
B 在折叠线上标出肩颈点方位,以该点为基准,作出领宽线与领尖的外型(虚线)。
图 8图 8A图9 和图 9A

绅凯服装浅谈垂直的和斜向的扣眼


A 用大头针将领子纸样固定到另一片纸上。在不和拓印一切线条和两肩颈点。
B 移开纸样。将领子纸样相对放置。用铅笔画出所描线迹。核实一切构造线。
C标示后基地线。在纸样上标上“领里”和“领面”(图 8 和图 8A)。
阐明:当领子两头都缝上时,它将有一个弯曲的趋势,尤其是领尖角度很小时。要处理
这个疑问,就要在领尖两头都留有松份。而不是仅留在领宽线侧。
D 领面领宽线从后基地线开端向上量取 1/16英寸(0.2CM)。画一条线到间隔领尖大概1/2英寸(3.8CM)处渐成锥形。从此点持续画到领围线,逐步放出 1/16 英寸(0.2CM)的余量(如图 (" 细心画出虚线)。
E 在领面上标出后基地线点。在领里上间隔后基地线 1/4 英寸(0.6CM)处标示。
F 完结领子纸样,留出缝头,沿线剪开并打剪口(图 9 和图9A)。
G 依据规划要求画出经向线。

A lapel collar is a dual-purpose. Take the words too literally。 This collar can be opened and closed. Made as follows:
A a piece of collar in the collar of the marginal turn off, the outer collar line gently bending, there is a collar angle shape.
B two pieces of collar in the collar outside the edge of the suture, collar and collar edge of the line are bent and collar corner shape.
This chapter will comment on the manufacturing of these two kinds of.
Paragraph A and paragraph B
A piece of dual purpose collar.
Figure 1 and figure 1A
A need to connect the collar around the front and back samples, in the collar around the line to stay a certain degree of relaxation, adjusted as follows:
1 in the rear base line and the collar around the collar are cut 1/8 inches (0.3CM);
2 will be reduced to the former base line 1/2-1/2 inches (0.6-1.3CM); shoulder line at a reduction of 1/8 inches (0.3CM).
3 draw a new line (dashed line).
B planning collar size:
1 from the rear base line to the shoulder line of the new collar Wai line;
2 from the rear base line to the front line of the new collar line;
Dual purpose led at the back of the base width of 2 1/2 - 3 6.4-8.9CM inches (1/2), too wide, will not feel the collar
Comfortable.
Figure 2
A cut a piece of paper with a size of about 12 inches *18 inches (30.5CM*45.7CM).
B will turn out half of paper, fold. Draw a line in the fold, labeled "folding line" (leading edge).
C in the paper on the left. Draw a line perpendicular to the fold line, the amount is equal to the collar width. Marked "after the base line", such as
Figure 2 1/2 inches (6.4CM), at the back of the base line mark "A"".
D A drawing a line parallel to the folding line, the length and the length of a line before and after the collar. Lead enclosed line". In the collar
On line punctuation "B.".
E. Drawing a line perpendicular to the fold line, and crosses marked "base line".
F from # point at the collar after the collar line line length, the shoulder neck point range, do sign, marked "shoulder and neck
Point".
Figure 3
A from the B point along the front base line up to take the amount of 1/2 inches (1.3CM), punctuation, labeled "C"".
B from the C point to a straight neck and shoulder point (dashed line).
C in the C point and chip neck point of the dotted line point down 1/8 inches (0.3CM) at the point of punctuation, over this point, shoulder and neck points and
C draw a straight line, as the new front collar line.
Figure 4
A will be folded along the fold line, and fixed with a pin.
B draw a planned lead angle. The dotted line is not the same as the lead angle.
C in base line, after rubbing with origami collar line, a new front collar line, shoulder and neck and collar corner.
Figure 5
A opened the printed pattern, stitch and shoulder neck point with a pencil.
B on the map marked "collar face" and "collar" (as shown).
C from the beginning of the base line, in the collar around the line, according to the fabric thickness is not the same as set aside 1/8 - 1/16 inch (0.2-0.3CM) of the loose parts, the collar tip does not stay loose parts, constitute a cone. Exactly as the dotted line is drawn.
The collar is a loose line added in order to get the smooth surface can be folded together, also shade the collar to collar seam line
Trace. This principle is applicable to all along the fold line cut neck width collar line, and similar Chinese collar collar outside.
D in the face of the line after the marked line; in the collar after the interval between the base line 1/4 inch 10.6CM mark.
The collar and collar symbols on different range is located, in order to identify the collar and collar.
E based on the planning to draw the line.
F the end of the pattern, set aside the joint head, cut and cut mouth.
Figure 5A
The schematic icon shows the opening of a piece of collar, and indicates the orientation of the collar on the contact with the rear base line.
Figure 6A and Figure 6
The two icon sketch a collar, but in line with stitch collar width. A loose portion is set aside from the collar line to replace the collar of this type. As shown in the figure, at the neck of the neck does not stay loose parts, constitute a cone.
C
The wide line is the two piece of the arc.
This collar because of the appearance, so can not be cut into a piece of.
A reference "manufacturing the collar pattern, as shown in Figure 1, figure 2 and figure 3.
B in the fold line to mark the point of the shoulder and neck, to the point as the benchmark, to make a wide line and collar tip shape (dashed line).
Figure 8 figure 8A Figure 9 and figure 9A
A will be fixed with a pin collar pattern to another piece of paper. In all two lines with rubbing and shoulder neck point.
Remove the B pattern. The relative placement of collar pattern. Use a pencil to draw a trace. Verify all construction lines.
C mark after base line. In the pattern marked with "collar" and "collar" (Fig. 8 and Fig. 8A).
It will have a curved trend, especially when the collar is sewn on both ends. To deal with
This question, you want to stay at the tip of the tip are loose copies. Rather than just stay on the line side.
D collar wide line from the base line to the beginning of the amount of 1/16 inches (0.2CM). Draw a line to the gap between the tip of the 1/2 inch (3.8CM) is gradually tapered. From this point to the continuous collar line, gradually release the 1/16 inch (0.2CM) margin (Figure ("carefully draw a dashed line).
E in the face of the line after the line points out. Mark the base line 1/4 inch (0.6CM) at the top of the collar.
F end collar pattern, set aside the joint head, cut and cut along the estuary (Fig. 9 and Fig. 9A).
G draw the line according to the planning requirements.

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