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北京西服定做浅谈衣服肩部与皮肤的关系

来源:北京绅凯服装   浏览:24   【字体: 】 发布日期: 2016-9-21 22:32:21 打印

(1)皮肤的厚度、柔软度和衣服肩部的运动功能关于皮肤厚度分布状况的概略已在前 面的颈部一项中谈到。


肩部周围的皮肤,以肩棱为界线,前面比后面薄,越到前面越柔软。这就是以胸锁关 节为支点的肩部向前可动性的原由。 肩端部分的皮肤比较厚而有紧紧地包覆肩端圆头部的感觉。


此肩端部位是在肩部和上肢运动时,牵引衣服、压迫集中的部位。受压的肩端皮肤,受衣服的牵引,而向颈侧滑动,起到了减少衣服压力的作用。这种皮肤功能与下面要讲的肩部皮肤的皱纹有关。


(2)皮肤皱纹和肩部的动作,衣服肩部的运动功能 肩部的皮肤积蓄皱纹中,大致有 两个流向,一个是沿着领围线的颈部方向,另一个是逐渐离开的沿着肩端的方向。


从上面看皱纹的流向,无论哪一部分都大致垂直于肩线。作为皮肤皱纹的特性,与皱纹垂直的方向是容易伸展的方向,因此,肩端应该是朝点线箭头所示的颈侧方向收缩。因为肩端是多轴性关节,可多方向自由运动,所以特定某个方向是困难的。而从 皮肤皱纹来看,这箭头所示的方向,就是肩部及上肢带的主要运动方向。


要使服装肩部完全适应于人体肩部的运动,使肩部运动自如,这是十分困难的。这里有两种方法:一种是把衣服做成完全宽松的,包括整个肩部;另一种是选择适当的材料、设计纸样结构,研究加工方法,经过综合处理,减轻肩端的阻力,以提高穿着的 功能性。 

(1) general motion function of skin thickness, softness and clothes on the shoulder skin thickness distribution has been in front of the neck in a talk.
The skin around the shoulders, to the shoulder edge as the line, the front than the back thin, the more to the front of the softer. This is the reason for the movement of the shoulder, which is based on the joint of the chest. End of the shoulder part of the skin is thick and tightly coated shoulder end round head feeling.
The shoulder end is in the shoulder and upper limb movement, traction clothes, oppression of the location of the concentrated. Compression of the shoulder end of the skin, by the traction of the clothes, and to the side of the neck slide, played a role in reducing the pressure of clothing. This skin function is related to the wrinkles of the shoulder skin.
(2) the skin wrinkles and shoulder movements, shoulder shoulder function exercise clothes skin wrinkles in the savings of roughly two, to a direction along the neck collar line, another is gradually left along the direction of the shoulder end.
Look at the flow of wrinkles from above, no matter which part is roughly perpendicular to the shoulder line. As the characteristics of the skin wrinkles, and wrinkles perpendicular to the direction is easy to stretch the direction, so the shoulder should be the direction of the neck to the point of the line of the direction of contraction. Because the shoulder end is a multi axis joint, it can move freely in many directions, so it is difficult to be specific in one direction. And from the skin wrinkles, the direction shown by the arrow, is the main direction of movement of the shoulder and upper limb.
It is very difficult to make the garment shoulder fully fit for the movement of the shoulder of the human body, so that it can move freely in the shoulder. There are two kinds of methods: one is to put the clothes completely relaxed, including the entire shoulder; the other is the selection of appropriate materials, design pattern, study the processing method, after comprehensive treatment, relieve shoulder end resistance, in order to improve the function of dress.

 

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