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浅谈不用原型样板制作铜盆领

来源:北京绅凯服装   浏览:28   【字体: 】 发布日期: 2016-9-1 22:14:24 打印
浅谈不用原型样板制作铜盆领

不用样板翻作的铜盆领的领座高度与用样板制作的一样。但是,用来计算后中心处领座高度的公式有所改变。

1英寸(2.5CM)领座———从后中心线向上量1英寸(2.5CM)。

3/4 英寸(1.9CM)领座———从后中心线向上量2英寸(5.1CM)。

1/2英寸(1.3CM)领座———从后中心线向上量3 英寸(7.6CM)。

1/4英寸(0.6CM)领座———从后中心线向上量4 英寸(10.2CM)。

图1
A 如“一片式两用领”图 1,在获得领围尺寸之前。先在样板上调整领围线。
B 剪一边长大约为15 英寸(38.1CM)的正方形纸。
C 在纸的左边,从纸的底边开始量取大约 1英寸(2.5CM);画两条相互垂直的线。标注“后中心线”和“标准线”(如图)。

D在后中心线和标准线的交点处向上量 1英寸(2.5CM),过此点画一条水平线,长度等于后领围线尺寸。标上标记号“A”肩颈点。
E 在 A 点放一直尺,并旋转直尺,直到等于前领围线长度处接触标准线,在交点处标注“B”。
F  连接 A、B,作为前领窝弧线长。



图 2
A 用曲线板将领围线在 A点划顺(虚线)。
B 过 B 点画一短线与标准线成 45*角。标为“前中心线”。
C 在后中心线上量取设计要求的领子宽度。如图:2 1/2英寸(6.4CM)。从后中心线到前中心线画一条领围线的平行线。
D 在领子前部设计款式造型,画出弧线或领尖。
E 参照“用样板制作铜盆领”图 1 和图2 完成纸样。
图 3、图 4 和图 5



​其它领座高度的领子制作步骤同图 1 和图2讨论的一样。
唯一的不同点是后中心线上的领座较高。
款 B
该款表示在前中心处开启的不重叠的铜盆领

The collar height of the copper basin collar which is not made by the sample is the same as the template. However, the formula used to calculate the height of the center at the center of the center has been changed.
1 inches (2.5CM) collar seat - from the rear center line up to 1 inches (2.5CM).
3/4 inch (1.9CM) collar seat - from the rear center line up to 2 inches (5.1CM).
1/2 inch (1.3CM) collar seat - from the rear center line up to 3 inches (7.6CM).
1/4 inch (0.6CM) collar seat - from the rear center line up to 4 inches (10.2CM).
Figure 1
A such as "a piece of dual-use collar" figure 1, before getting the collar size. First adjust the collar line on the sample.
B cut the side length of about 15 inches (38.1CM) of square paper.
C in the paper to the left, to measure approximately 1 inches from the bottom of the paper (2.5CM); draw two vertical lines. Mark the "post center line" and "standard line" (Figure).
At the intersection of D in center line and standard line to 1 inches (2.5CM), the draw a horizontal line length equal to the rear collar line size. Marking the number "A" shoulder neck point.
E A has been put in the feet, and rotating ruler, until the front collar line length is equal to the standard contact line, at the intersection marked "B".
The F connection A, B, as a former long neck line.
Figure 2
A with the curve of the general line in the A points in a row along the line (dotted line).
B B points in line with the standard 45* a short-term angle. Front center line".
C in the center line of the design requirements of the collar width. Figure: 2 6.4CM inches (1/2). Draw a line from the center line to the front line.
D in the front of the collar design style, draw the curve or collar.
E reference "with the production model of copper pots" in Figure 1 and Figure 2 pattern.
Figure 3, figure 4 and figure 5
The other collar height of the collar is the same as that of Figure 1 and Figure 2.
The only difference is that the center line of the collar is higher.
B
This section represents a non overlapping copper basin collar at the front center.




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