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绅凯服装浅谈在斜襟线上的青果领

来源:北京绅凯服装   浏览:27   【字体: 】 发布日期: 2016-9-2 21:24:18 打印

此类领子可以在各种有省道或无省道的原型样板上进行变化,它可以与衣身裁成一片或在驳点线处与衣身缝合。
款A

图 #
A 采用前片原型样板。
B 剪一块约20 英寸 *30 英寸(50.8CM*76.2CM)的纸。
C  把样板放在纸的左下边,画出样板的轮廓线。
D  拿开样板,核对所有结构线。
E  将肩颈点标上A。
F  在腰围线上从前中心线量出 3英寸(7.6CM)标上 B点。
G 从A 到B 连一直线标上斜襟线。
H  为了使斜襟线更合适,从胸高点到斜襟线中心连一直线,并延长到纸的边缘,与斜
襟线交点,标上C。
I 从斜襟线 C点向下量取3/4 英寸(1.9CM)作一标记点。
J 从纸的边缘沿线剪向胸高点(如图所示)。
K  沿着靠近袖窿的腰省线剪向胸高点。
图​2
A  移动剪下的部分。使 C 点取斜襟线上的标记点吻合,固定,腰省量会自动增大。
B 从B 到A画一条新的斜襟线,并延长至后领窝弧长的量,标上D 点,图中后领窝长为 3 1/8 英寸(7.9CM),为 12 号的尺寸。
注意:变化后领部分时可参考“青果领———窄型”图 1 中的 I 和 J 步骤及图 2 的A、B C步骤。
C  在纸样上设计领子的驳点,从原始的领线与前中线交点向下量取 3 英寸(7.6CM)定点,标上驳点。
D  设计翻折线,从 F 向上量取 1 英寸(2.5CM)作标记点。由此向驳点划顺就得到翻折线(虚线)。​

E 将领子的驳点,翻折线、后领线、领子后中线、领宽线等在纸的反面上描线并作标记。

 

A 将纸样的反面沿翻折线到驳点将纸翻折到正面。
B 按所设计的后领窝线和驳点画出领子造型线(粗实线所示)。
图 4
A  打开纸样,在正面描出领子的领宽线,并用铅笔描出所有的线。
B 需设计公主线时请参考“在前片上设计不同的公主线”部分。
C  贴边宽为 2 1/2 英寸(6.4CM),从肩线到腰线画一平行于斜襟线的虚线为贴边线。

 

 

D 请参考“没有领子的驳领”图 # 和图 $ 完成纸样。
款 B
款 B 是表示在不同服装款式中的领型。

his collar in a variety of prototype dart or dart on the changes, it can be cut into a piece of clothing and body or in line at the point of barge and clothes suture.
A
Figure #
A using the prototype model of the former.
B cut a piece of about 20 inches *30 inches (50.8CM*76.2CM) of paper.
C put the model on the left side of the paper, draw the outline of the model.
D take the model, check all the structural lines.
E points on the shoulder and neck A.
F on the waist line in front of the center line volume of 3 inches (7.6CM) labeled B points.
G from A to B with a straight line marked surplice line.
In order to make H more suitable surplice line, from the bust point to a surplice line center line, and extend to the edge of the paper, and cable
Along the line intersection, mark C.
I from the surplice line C point down from 3/4 inches (1.9CM) as a marker.
J cut from the edge of the paper to the chest high point (as shown in figure).
K along the line near the waist dart armhole cut to the bust point.
Figure 2
A mobile cut part. The C pick surplice line marker with fixed amount will automatically increase the waist.
B from B to A and draw a new surplice line, and extended to the neck after the arc length, D standard, in Figure 3 1/8 long neck, 12 inches (7.9CM) size.
Note: after the change brought part of reference to "narrow shawl collar - type" I in Figure 1 and Figure 2 J steps and A steps, B C.
C in the pattern design of collar barge, from the original collar line and the anterior midline point down from 3 inches (7.6CM) point mark point barge.
D designed to turn the line, from the F up to 1 inches (2.5CM) as a mark point. From this point to the point of the barge will be turned over to the line (dotted line). .
E the collar point of the collar, turning the line, after the collar, collar, the line, collar wide line and so on the back of the paper and make a mark on the line.
A will be the opposite pattern along the fold lines to be folded to the front paper barge.
B according to the design after the neck line and split points collar molding line (shown in bold lines).
Figure 4
A open pattern, in front of trace collar collar width line, and all the lines with a pencil.
B need to design the princess line, please refer to the "in front of the design of the different parts of the princess" section.
C welt width of 2 1/2 inches (6.4CM), to draw a parallel line to the waist line from the shoulder line surplice as welt line.
D please refer to "no collar collar" figure and figure $# complete pattern.
B
Paragraph B is a leader in different clothing styles.




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