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北京工作服订做浅谈弓身体形与服装设计纸样的调整

来源:北京绅凯服装   浏览:23   【字体: 】 发布日期: 2016-9-16 17:03:34 打印

的弓身体形的人体侧面曲势线,就是上半身在背部增加曲率,下半身在腹部增加曲率。


这样曲势形态带有动势感、流动感、柔软感,所以从美术角度来看,可能比挺直的更具有美的价值。在效果图和女模特中,喜欢这种类型和姿势可能也是缘于此吧。


服装设计的对象人体,不仅仅是指姿势,而是指体形。紧身合体的服装,应采用自然地顺着弓身体形曲势的纸样。


1)弓身体形与标准体形的差异 先来研究一下弓身体形与标准体形〔弓身体形与反身体形的中间形态〕的不同之处。


与标准体形相比,连接线方向变成 方向,连接线方向变成 方向,斜率增大,接近。结果,弓身体形胸腹部的长度变短成 胸部弯曲量也减少,呈扁平化。


背面相反,背部 的长度(背长)变成 成为长度变长、曲率增加、背宽增加。臀部,由于后面臀沟下垂,臀沟和 臀底的连接线 ,稍有向上的倾向。


弓身体形的整体特征是颈部前倾,手臂根靠前,臀部下沉、腹部前突。


这些变化在纸样中必须反映出来。


2)纸样的调整纸样前后片的调整与体形的变化有着密切的关系。纸样 的右侧所示,虚线是标准体形,实线表示弓身体形。


具体纸样如下:


(1)前中心长和后中心长,与人体领围线前倾相对应,纸样前中心 变短,后中心  变长。


(2)因手臂根位置移向胸侧,纸样的袖窿也前移,胸宽内挖,背宽变宽。

(3)胸部因扁平,腋下省道改小,背部因圆势增加,设置肩省。

(4)下摆向前中心方向移动,这样更易贴合弓身体形。

(5)因臀部扁平而下垂,下半身纸样后片腰部下移,后片横裆下挖,臀宽变窄。后片整体呈所谓立起来的形状。

(6)因臀部的屈量有减少的倾向,所以腰部后省改小。

 

Body shape of the body side curve of the body curve, that is, the upper body in the back of the increase in the curvature of the lower body in the abdomen to increase the curvature.
This song form with a sense of momentum and potential movement and soft feeling, so from the point of view of art, may have better value than straight. In the effect diagram and female models, like this type and posture may also be due to this bar.
Clothing design of the object of the human body, not just refers to the position, but refers to the body. Tight fit clothing, should be used naturally along the bow shape curved potential pattern.
1) the difference between the body shape and the standard of the bow to study the difference between the bow body and the standard body shape and the middle shape of the body.
Compared with the standard form, the direction of the connecting line becomes the direction, the direction of the connecting line becomes the direction, the slope increases, and the direction of the connection is close to the standard. As a result, the length of the bow body, the length of the chest and abdomen becomes shorter and the volume of the chest is reduced, and the body is flattened.
Back on the contrary, the back length (back length) becomes longer and longer, the curvature increases, and the back width increases. Hips, due to the back of the hip ditch drop, anal groove and the bottom of the connection line, a slight upward tendency.
The overall characteristics of bow shape is the neck forward, arm root front, buttocks, abdomen before the sudden sinking.
These changes must be reflected in the pattern of.
2) there is a close relationship between the changes and the shape adjustment pattern before and after the film pattern. The pattern shown on the right side, the dotted line is the standard figure, the solid line shows the bow body shape.
The specific pattern is as follows:
(1) before and after the center center long long, body and neck lines forward corresponding pattern, before the center becomes shorter, after the center of variable length.
(2) because of arm root position toward the chest side pattern armhole forward, chest wide digging, back width.
(3) for flat chest, underarm dart back to small, due to the increase of round potential, setting the shoulder dart.
(4) the center forward hem direction, it's easier to fit the arch shaped body.
(5) due to the hips flat drooping, lower body pattern piece after piece waist down, cross crotch dig, hip width narrowing. The whole piece is called the shape of the post.
(6) due to the reduction of the hip flexor tendency, so the waist after the province to change the small.

 

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